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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary honour.